Johannesburg - Many Joburgers are unaware that the bulk of the city’s heritage lies in the CBD and surrounds, such as Fordsburg. Entwined in Joburg’s legacy, Fordsburg started out as a mining town with a strong Pakistani/Indian mix. It was subsequently declared a “whites only area”, until the mid-1970s, when Indians were allowed to set up shop in the Oriental Plaza – which remains the cornerstone of the colourful suburb. Housing around 360 shops and restaurants, the plaza is situated between Bree, Malherbe, Lilian and Main streets.
Admittedly, Fordsburg can be a bit overwhelming on one’s first visit (especially on a Saturday at month-end), but you can easily and safely navigate the main points of interest on foot, which is sometimes easier than battling the traffic. I’d recommend starting your visit on a Friday afternoon, when the Muslim shopkeepers have reopened their stores after the weekly Friday prayer at the mosque – which usually ends at about 2pm.
Secure parking is available at the Oriental Plaza, which is the antithesis of the average Joburg mall. Instead of franchised stores, the shopkeepers themselves usually own each shop. Indians, Chinese, Somalis and Arabs all coexist in harmony, selling anything from jewellery to samoosas. Arrive hungry, because a trip to Fordsburg is a foodie’s paradise. Go up to the first floor of the plaza, and visit World of Samoosas. This is an institution; with a steady stream of fresh, hot samoosas being fried continuously. Samoosas are priced at R36/dozen, and come in a range of flavours – my favourites being coconut and chicken. You can buy unfried samoosas to take home at R33/dozen. If you’re preserving your waistline and aren’t keen to deep fry them, simply brush with oil and bake in the oven for 20 minutes, adding oil every five minutes.
From there, walk to the other side of the balcony overlooking the open square, and head to Dubai Jewellery. Here, you can find a huge array of costume jewellery, as well as handbags. Prices are a bit on the steep side, so be prepared to negotiate. Walk along the balcony and cross over to the other side of the plaza, known as the Grand Bazaar. Make sure to stop at Leela’s and Hanifa’s, where you can find beautiful Indian garments like sarees and punjabis. You’ll also spot a number of stores selling textiles, particularly curtain fabrics. All you have to do is measure your windows, choose your fabric preference and the rest is done for you – tailor-made curtains at a fraction of the cost you’d pay further north.
The Oriental Plaza closes at 5pm, which is when the Fordsburg Market starts coming alive. The market is situated in Mint Road, and you really can’t miss it. It’s an open air square which is an explosion of colour, clothing, dvds (I can’t speak to the authenticity of these) and delicious street food all in one convenient space. Friday night is the best time to go: it’s really the place to be for everyone who’s anyone in Mayfair. You’ll spot twentysomethings showing off the new sound in their cars, whistling at shy girls walking past. You’ll also see housewives doing their weekly grocery shopping – there is no better place to buy Indian vegetables and spices. And then you’ll spot the “visitors” like you and me, people who have driven 15 minutes or more just to be part of this Friday night magic.
I’m always a little stunned when I arrive. With all the delicious food around, one is not sure what to eat first. I inevitably opt for a samoosa (or five), as well as a puri patha, which is a fried flat bread with madumbi leaves rolled in a spicy gram flour paste. After walking around a bit, and stocking up on cardamom chai teabags and butter biscuits, I either cross the road and order a chip roll from Akhalwaya’s (their toasted steak special is equally good), or head to the corner of the market, where Kebab Mahal is situated. This is my sanctuary. For R25, you can get a roti filled with tender tikka chicken – braaied on a skewer – salad and chips, all topped with a secret sauce. The chicken is boneless, tender, and simply delicious – the meal hits the spot every single time. For dessert, I’d choose a sweetmeat from the wide range on offer – my favourite is the gulab jamun, deep fried dough, made mainly from milk solids, then soaked in a light sugar syrup flavoured with cardamom and rosewater.
Other not-to-be-missed stops (open during the day only) include Hanover Bakery (10 Hanover Street) which is an Indian-style Halaal bakery. Its specialities include pecan caramel loaf and mini chocolate cakes coated in the most divine creamy chocolate sauce.
Fordsburg is home to one of the city’s most upmarket butcheries. United Butchery (19 Central Avenue) is famous for its spicy lamb sausages. Vegetarians should definitely visit Shayona (74 Church Street) – a completely non-meat restaurant which is renowned for its curries, especially those with home-made cheese (paneer) and for its mammoth assortment of sweetmeats. - Sunday Independent
l For more ideas of things to do in and around Jozi, visit Hasmita’s blog, www.joziliciousblog.co.za