Cape Town - The drive from Cape Town to Lord’s Guest Lodge outside McGregor was long, thanks to torrential rain and thunder which closed roads, causing me to take alternative routes. But nothing could mar the scenery, which was gobsmackingly beautiful once I exited the Huguenot tunnel.
Finding I was well on my way to the Karoo, I took a right turn to discover even more beautiful scenery as I made my way down Burgerspas, through Montagu, through Robertson and on to Lord’s, with its own amazing views from its hilltop vantage.
Apart from the unmistakably South African names of those at its helm – Matt Bronkhorst and Collin du Plessis, and Wilhelm Spies, who showed me to my cottage – this could be Scotland. That may seem a stretch, but the fynbos makes a fine substitute for heather and the location and design are most apt.
The thatched stone buildings with trailing vines and chimney stacks are faithfully reminiscent of Scotland and the cottages represent Scottish Lords, complete with clan tartan cushions and tiebacks, crests and historical background. Settling into an Adirondack chair on the porch of the lodge, I enjoyed spectacular views across the “moors” towards the nearby village of McGregor and the mountains beyond.
My cottage had a huge bed and a lounge area in front of a large fireplace. It was tastefully furnished with couch and chairs, and facilities included a flat screen tv, and tea and coffee facilities. I could imagine getting cosy on a wintry night, either there or in the en-suite bathtub (or large shower) gazing out of the long sash window. As it was summer, a dip in the pool alongside the lodge’s wine bar was more appropriate.
Apart from five cottages, there are just four rooms. This makes Lord’s fabulous as a quiet retreat, for a fling – Highland or other – or a wedding in the chapel just below the crest of the hill.
Hungry after an evening stroll, I enjoyed the sumptuous food available. Collin’s signature rack of lamb with a delectable chocolate fondant for dessert was perfect.
I turned in early and was knocking on Rachelle Anderson’s door in McGregor’s high street at 8.30 the next morning. Rachelle makes the best pesto (www.passionateaboutpesto.co.za) I’ve tasted, especially her mascarpone version.
She was my volunteer guide and even though she is not a tippler, soon we were sipping bubbly at Lords Wines (no relation to the lodge) just outside the village a shade before 9am. Ah well. Cheers!
Lords Wines is almost a one woman show under cellar mistress Elise Schutte. The MCC Brut was superb – a light Pinot/ Chardonnay blend. The Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah were mighty fine too, but Pinot Noir holds sway here and the 2010/11 vintages have both won Michaelangelo gold medals.
The versatile Wicked Maiden dry Rosé is a ridiculously inexpensive bargain, and I am about to place my second order via www.lordswinery.com.
After the winery we moseyed around McGregor, which has the charm but no pretentions. Nor does Robertson, one of my favourite country towns. I’m not alone in my opinion.
Sitting down for dinner at Bourbon Street restaurant on Robertson’s Voortrekker Street, I was surprised by the rich American tones of owner Lea Ward, who had tasked South African born hubby Leon to find a country town to which to emigrate from the US. First – and only stop: Robertson.
The grub was very good. The food is diverse and extensive menu offerings include a sushi bar. I felt like pizza and it was fantastic, topped with chourico, prawns, avo and rocket. Happily I still had space for their recommendation: steak. Wow! Full as I was, I made quite a dent in the perfectly prepared fillet. Sadly that left no room for sticky Southern pecan pie, or rich lemon pie with cream.
Klipdrift Distillery is a short way down the road from Bourbon Street. The next day lovely Ulyn van Zyl was my host and guide for a most interesting few hours.
The story behind the brandy is very much part of Robertson’s history. Ulyn revealed why it’s always two minutes past eight on the bar clock and on bottles of Klipdrift (the time that JP Marais distilled his first brandy). She took me through the brandy making process and I found out how much kick is in those oak barrels, even when closed. Apparently bulls parties and the like have caught on to the fact that time spent among the fumes in the low roofed cellar equates to quite a few free rounds!
A tasting and food pairing followed, and I left with a new appreciation for brandy and a bottle of excellent Klipdrift Premium.
It may sound as if it was all meat and drink during my stay, and it kind of was, though the many beautiful sights ensured the soul was also well fed. The wine estates and Breede River, framed by the surrounding mountains, offer beautiful vistas, but the views from the porch of my cottage at Lord’s trumped all.
In the early mornings the prolific birdlife urged me out of bed as they pursued insects rising from the fynbos. The gorgeous sunsets, with wild fragrances stirred by the evening breeze, made me realise there are always spaces to fill inside, full tummy or no.
l Contact Lord’s Guest Lodge: 023 625 1881/078 340 6567 or visit www.lordsguestlodge.co.za - Sunday Tribune