By Myrtle Ryan
Cape Town - Not far from Cape Agulhas, often referred to as the Cool Tip of Africa, and within a stone’s throw of the fascinating historical mission village of Elim, lies Strandveld Vineyards.
The composition of the soil – quartz, chalk, iron ferricrete and koffieklip – adds to the unique flavour of wines grown in this area. These same elements make for a fascinating garden feature close to the cottage where I stayed. Here the four very different kinds of soil are laid out in the shape of a wheel. Spokes radiating from the hub divide them. A pond, small bridge, young trees, plants and lawns, add to the scene.
The two large, comfortable self-catering cottages, with high ceilings and heavy wooden beams, which adjoin each other, originally housed farm labourers. At night total silence descends. This is a good time to read one of the coffee table books supplied, which give the history of this area where shipwrecks were a regular feature in the olden days.
While the contents of a wine glass do not ring my bell, there was much to keep me entertained, especially when taking a walk through the farmlands early one morning. Blue cranes, our country’s national bird, were sizing each other up as, wings spread, they went through the rituals of their mating dance.
After very heavy recent rains, wetlands on the farm were thriving, with lots of waterblommetjies, while wildflowers were checking out the first rays of the sun. I was hopeful of meeting a caracal, which apparently likes to hang out near a windmill on the farm, but no such luck. One of the dams, though, proved fruitful for birdlife amid the water lilies.
There are many wetland lakes in the surrounding area: Waskraal, Voëlkraal, Zoetendals, Soutpan (much favoured by flamingo), Langpan, Melkbos. Fish sometimes swim up from the ocean to the lakes, and one even houses a small family of hippo: two cows, two youngsters, and a bull.
During a drive around the farm with Conrad Vlok, the winemaker and manager of Strandveld, I learnt that even in the height of summer, breezes off the ocean keep the area cool.
“They blow from the south, west and east, and the small weather station on the farm has never recorded more than 24 hours without wind.”
He pointed out posts erected for owls and raptors. “They help protect the vines from mice at night, and birds in the day,” he explained. He picked up some clods which looked like petrified soil. “Instead of clearing it, workers come in with 10lb hammers and break it up. That way it helps bring out the distinctive flavour of the wines.”
To give me a taste of the countryside, Conrad took me to a tiny hamlet, Wolvengat, popular with artists. On a return visit alone the next day, I met a woman who runs a fascinating trading store, while her husband (who is the custodian of local history and keeps newspaper cuttings) mends ploughs. Sculptures in a nearby garden were a tribute to the resident sculptress.
That night, we dined at an enormous table, on typical food of the area.
A highlight was the Cape Agulhas National Park, just kilometres from the farm. Here, on Rietfontein beach, the ocean sparkled, lichen clad the rocks, beach sand was snowy white, while wild flowers nestled everywhere. I even spotted some colourful bontebok. Hikers can walk the Shipwreck Trail, starting at Die Damme through to Cape Agulhas lighthouse, which passes through Rietfontein en route. There is also Cape Dutch style accommodation to rent here.
A new boardwalk recently opened at Cape Agulhas. On a blustery day, between showers of rain, taking the 1km walk beside the stormy ocean was wonderfully evocative.
Strandveld hosts the annual Elim Wine and Food Festival, organised by wine farms in the area. During my visit, Elim was soaked in rain, but this could not detract from its character.
There are cellar tours and wine tasting. The Strandveld and First Sighting ranges have won several awards. At the Swiss International Air Lines Awards, Strandveld’s 2007 vintage Adamastor (sauvignon blanc/semillon) was one of only 24 wines to win gold, out of 1 000 entries. At the SA Terroir Wine Awards it was the top blended white wine of origin.
Contact: 028 482 1902. E-mail: [email protected] - Sunday Tribune